Taking up a 60 -seater space on level four of Funan, Godmama Singapore, a modern Peranakan restaurant & bar welcomes Peranakan cuisine lovers with their brand new weekend fusion brunch options. Join us as we sample their innovative weekend menu which creatively infused our familiar Peranakan favourites into the modern western brunch!
Co-owner Christina Keilthy left her corporate job to take up arms in the F&B industry, simply because she wanted to preserve the delicious legacy of her Godma’s and Mama’s Egg Skin Popiah, a dish she’d had the fortune of enjoying since childhood.
Godmama grew into its current concept when she found fellow Peranakans in co-owners Derrick Chew and Fredric Goh, who is also Head Chef of the establishment. The new concept has accomplished quite a feat by marrying heirloom recipes from two families into one extensive menu of traditional favourites, cocktails and a mod-Peranakan brunch.
We were there on a weekend where things supposedly took a fun and more contemporary turn with brunch plates imagined by head chef Fredric Goh, but still featuring the solid, dependable flavours imparted by the previous generation. The dish below Godmama’s Otak Otak Benedict ($19.90) was unfortunately not available when we were there. We understand from the staff that a generous otak otak is served sandwiched between greens and toasted sourdough and topped with two poached eggs topped with a creamy Hollandaise sauce.
Started the morning brunch with a delicious cup of coffee by Terence Tan, TAD Coffee Singapore National Barista Champion 2017 and a lovely chilled Butterfly Pea Lemonade.
The first dish to be served was Godmama’s Famous All-Star Egg Skin Popiah ($6.50++) which is faithfully recreated using Godma’s family recipe. The main filling of hand-cut vegetables requires hours of constant tender care before going into a wrapper of soft egg skin crepe with fresh prawns, lettuce, crushed peanuts, and crispy shallots. The winning factor here is really the super soft egg skin crepe and this delicious starter is available all day!
Next, we got to savour savouries like the Buah Keluak Bolognese Pasta ($19.90++), where linguine is tossed in Godmama’s classic nyonya buah keluak (black nut) spicy and tangy stew with beef. Given our personal preference for Peranakan cuisine, we felt that the Buah Keluak flavours could have been stronger. They might be trying to manage the tastebuds of folks who are relatively new to the cuisine.
Pulled Pork Pongteh Sunny ($15.90) was up next. A robust Babi Pongteh (pork stew with homemade bean sauce) is served as an open-faced sandwich with toasted sourdough from Bread & Hearth, and topped with a runny sunny-side up. It also comes with emping keropok on the side.
My personal favourite is Chef Fred’s signature tamarind pork belly stew gets reincarnated in the Babi Assam Baked Eggs ($16.90++). The flavours and spiciness of the Babi Assam were intense and go really well with bread.
Those with a sweet tooth will enjoy the Banana Pengat Buttermilk Pancakes ($17.90++). The stack of three fluffy, buttermilk pancakes is topped with creamy banana pengat (traditional Peranakan coconut milk banana compote) and vanilla bean ice cream. It was a lovely end to the delicious brunch.
If you prefer the true blue traditional Peranakan dishes, you should visit Godmama during the weekdays to sample their ‘usual’ menu. They serve up with the classic, fragrant stews of Ayam Buah Keluak ($18.90++) or Babi Assam ($16.90++). The spicy and tangy chicken stew with buah keluak (black nut) gets its aroma from the fresh root spices of lengkuas (blue ginger) and turmeric while the tamarind gives the pork belly dish – served with tau kwa (firm tofu) and chillis – its unique flavour.
Sambal Udang ($23.90++), where succulent tiger prawns are tossed in a mildly spicy, sweet yet tangy sambal sauce, is just one highlight of the seafood dishes. Don’t miss Godmama’s Homemade Otak Otak ($9.90++) either; this nostalgic snack of spiced mackerel fish mousse is steam-baked in an aromatic layer of spices including lemongrass, lime leaves, and blue ginger.
The Longan Red Date Tea that is traditionally served at the start of a Peranakan meal inspires the Sticky Red Date Pudding ($9.90++). Longan tea glaze, the caramel-like flavour of red dates with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream come together for an indulgent dessert.
There’s also a Gingerflower Lychee Sorbet ($10.90++), an exclusive flavour created in collaboration with a local small-batch creamery, Apiary. Topped with roasted peanut crumble and kaffir lime jelly, each mouthful is an aromatic showcase of this quintessential ingredient in Nyonya cuisine.
Godmama will also feature an outdoor area awash in greenery and complete with a curated list of refreshing tipples and moreish bar bites menu. The Peranakan take on classic cocktails comes courtesy of the son of co-founder Christina Keilthy and winner of The Bar Awards Singapore 2018 Rising Star.
Highlights include the Peranakan Blue ($22++), a Gin & Tonic made with local craft producer Brass Lion Distillery’s Butterfly Pea Gin and best savoured with Godmama’s Egg Skin Popiah. For something more spirit forward, diners can look to The Emperor of Melaka ($22++), a citrus twist-garnished Gula Melaka Old Fashioned that features five-year aged Barbados rum stirred down with the much-loved palm sugar, bitters, and smoked cinnamon.
Address: #04-07, FUNAN, 107 North Bridge Road, Singapore 179105 | Opening Hours: 10am to 10pm (Sun – Thurs) &10am to 12am (Fri – Sat) | Tel: +65 6970 0828 | Facebook: Godmamasg
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